Ludwik
Stomma
The National
Character
The author of
the presented essay continues his reflections on the phenomenon and
nature of the so-called national character, a descriptive category
typical for the social sciences. By referring to
Portret obcego
(Portrait of a Stranger) by Z. Benedyktowicz and its remark about
the dynamic nature of the "one’s own kind – the outsider" category,
the author draws attention predominantly to the dynamic of
stereotypical images and their purely conventional status. Alluding
to vast empirical material, the study underlines chiefly the purely
contextual (historical) aspect of the emergence of national
stereotypes, and thus opposes all those conceptions which wish to
see in the “national character” a social reality determined
psychologically, biologically or geographically.
Justyna
Chmielewska
Istanbul:
Recollections from a Lost City
In his
recently published autobiographical book:
Istanbul:
Memories and the City,
Orhan Pamuk attempts to present a highly personal attitude to his
birthplace where he spent a major part of his life. He seeks traces
of Istanbul – as he would like to see it and remember it from his
childhood – in texts, images and his own slightly enhanced
experiences; in its present-day form the town appears to be
nondescript, unworthy of attention and dilapidated.
Istanbul
is
a journey to the past and a non-extant city, which, nonetheless,
evokes a specific variety of Pamuk’s favourite melancholy. It is a
voyage amidst dusty stories by nineteenth-century authors-Orientalists
and illustrations showing hills overgrown with cypresses. Finally,
it is journey to a lost town – seized and overrun by successive
tides of immigrants from the provinces, cultural aliens who, Pamuk
seems to suggest, invaded
his
space,
producing a specifically Istanbulian paradoxical feeling of a loss.
Graeme
Gilloch, Jane Kilby
Trauma and
Memory in the City: From Auster to Austerlitz
The published
text is a translation of a chapter from
Urban Memory:
History and Amnesia in the Modern City,
edited by M. Crinson. The authors followed the literary depiction of
the theme of memory and trauma envisaged as experiences comprising
part of existence in urban spaces, i. a. in texts by W.G. Sebald, S.
Kracauer, W. Benjamin and P. Auster.
Adrian
Forty
Concrete and
Memory
The text,
which comes from
Urban Memory:
History and Amnesia in the Modern City,
edited by M. Crimson, is an attempt at analysing the relations
between the use of concrete as a building material with memory
conceived as the space of cultural and political negotiation. Taking
into consideration a number of celebrated monuments the author tries
to show the discussion surrounding them and the ambivalence of
employing this specific material for commemorating traumatic events
from the past.
Ewa Klekot
The Non-remembrance of the Ghetto
All the
accounts presented by guides showing Warsaw to assorted visitors
contain a considerable dose of martyrology: much is said about
violence. The material reality of the Muranów district, however,
entails non-remembrance. The original project launched by Lachert
was to recall violence, but its ideological premises, which
compelled people to inhabit grey housing estates made out of
rubble-concrete, were rapidly tamed so that it became possible to
forget.
Oxygenator,
realized in the summer of 2007 by Joanna Rajkowska, countered the
project of a monument commemorating the victims of the Volhynian
Massacre, immersed in a plebeian aesthetic of the macabresque and
emotions straight out of a horror movie. What does ”restoring
memory” to Warsaw and Muranów actually denote? Does it signify a
mere process of bringing up to date the narration of a non-existent
town, and of including into the memory of the Second World War
motifs which for many years remained outside the official discourse?
The answer is: yes, or even: above all else. This, however, also
means a restoration of the memory of the residents of post-war
Muranów – in other words, understanding the phenomenon of
non-remembrance.
Zygmunt
Krzyżanowski
Moscow Shop
Signs
One of the few
published sketches by Zygmunt Krzyżanowski (“30 dniey” 1925, no. 3)
is a pioneering semiotic- stylistic analysis of pre-Revolutionary
advertisements and “street texts” in a large city, preceding Walter
Benjamin’s
One-way Street
by
a decade.
Jan
Gondowicz
Ilf’s Two Days
in Warsaw
A fragment,
selected and commented on by Jan Gondowicz, of the diaries kept by
the Ilya Ilf, the author of
Twelve Chairs
and
Golden Calf,
describing two days spent in Warsaw in September 1935.
Miron
Białoszewski
Chamowo
A fragment of
Chamowo,
a book by
Miron Białoszewski (1975), prepared by the author for publication
but never issued.
Tadeusz
Sobolewski
A Date with
Reality
Miron
Białoszewski regarded unpretentious urban and suburban reality, such
as the one in Chamowo, in back of the Saska Kępa district of Warsaw
with access to the “groves over the Vistula”, as a living spectacle
which inspired him and which he co-created. He went on evening dates
with this reality, at times dictating its appearance by obliterating
the boundaries between art and nature.
Marek
Nowakowski
Guardian of
Memory
A literary
colourful tale, one of the stories told by the author about the
Praga district of Warsaw and its inhabitants.
Sławomir
Popowski
Reservation
Praga
The author
discusses the myth of the Praga district in Warsaw, and mentions
fashionable publications and photographic albums promoting a
nostalgic approach to this part of town. With this often naïve and
simplifying description as his point of departure he goes on to
propose a narration about the places and events comprising a
contemporary image of Praga, based on his own biography. The author
does not evade nostalgia and enchantment with Praga, but at the same
time he robs the portrait of all illusions of romantic idealisations.
The text depicts the life of the bazaars, drinking dens, and streets
of old right-bank Warsaw, together with its brutality, poverty and
polluted rawness; nonetheless, the author remains capable of
delighting in the beauty of a world that is no more.
Jerzy
Biernacki
The Praga
Family of Man
Jacek Sielski
took photographs of the Praga district in Warsaw from a specific
angle, seeking a
sui generis
urban folklore or encountering it frame after frame. Looking at the
bodies and faces of people from the streets of Praga: Brzeska,
Ząbkowska, Kawęczyńska, Stalowa and Szwedzka, or the Różycki Bazaar
we suddenly see much more, and their dialogues, thoughts and
experiences become “visible”. We discover not only the folklore of
the people of Praga but become aware of the fact that we are facing
a “Praga family of man”.
Andrzej Łojko
A Praga Ballade
Andrzej Łojko,
a photographer working in the Warsaw district of Praga, discusses
the works of Jacek Sielski – a press photographer documenting the
life of the district from the 1970s on. “Just as old love is
recalled fondly even if it never had a happy end, so the photographs
by Jacek Sielski, in the manner of an old ballad, lead us along the
streets and lanes of Praga, producing tears of nostalgia”, wrote the
author, recalling the long lost world of his youth.
Paweł
Elsztein
The Archive of
a Press Photographer
“I spent
several weeks gazing at the presented photographs. Obviously,
someone might be inclined to describe them as ordinary. But the
uniqueness of these small photos produce an awareness of the
significance of the work performed by Jacek Sielski, artist and
excellent press photographer. (...) Jacek Sielski is familiar with
the Praga district. In this case, he chose as his leitmotif a single
street with an adjoining area, namely, Brzeska Street and the
Różycki Bazaar. In doing so, he demonstrated, to put it in plain
terms, a lot of courage. Not all the residents of Brzeska Street
were willing to pose for a photographer. (...) The photos were taken
in the 1970s, the difficult years of the People’s Republic of
Poland. (...) The proverbial stench and filth discernible in the
photographs, the highly suspicious looking men and woman, and the
omnipresent poverty are the symbols of those bad old days. It was
also then that Brzeska Street became known as a ‘mean street’,
dangerous, and full of thugs and prostitutes, an image which Jacek
Sielski captured perfectly. Looking at his photos let us keep in
mind that this is an image of a past epoch and inimitable
situations, similar to those captured in the now rapidly vanishing
Różycki market”.
Zbigniew
Benedyktowicz, Grzegorz Kowalski, Roman Woźniak
Between Praga
and
Próżna Street – a Conversation about the Praga District and its
Artists
A record of a
conversation held with Grzegorz Kowalski – artist, professor at the
Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, co-organiser of the celebrated
inter-generation exhibitions held in the Praga district in the
1990s, and Roman Woźniak – director of Teatr Academia, organiser of
a Praga event known as ”Neighbours for Neighbours”, and leader of
the Praga art milieus. The conversation is not only a reflection
about the presence of artists in Praga and the changes which took
place in the district in recent years but also an attempt at
reconstructing successive exhibitions featured there.
Andrzej
Łojko
“Neighbours
for Neighbours”
This text
accompanied
Sąsiedzi
(Neighbours),
an exhibition of photographs by Andrzej Łojko, shown as part of the
“Neighbours for neighbours” show, describing the milieu of artists
representing assorted disciplines and working in Praga (especially
in 3 Inżynierska Street).
Dorota Sidorek,
The Różycki Bazaar.
The
Myth of the Marketplace in an Anthropological Interpretation
A study about
one of the oldest working open air markets in Warsaw, whose
years-long existence exerted a certain impact on its character and,
first and foremost, on its conspicuous mythologisation. The author
tried to characterise the specificity of the site and the factors
creating the myth, and to describe the life of the bazaar (commerce,
gambling) upon the basis of the reminiscences of the residents and
habitués of the Praga district as well as the stall keepers. She
also embarked upon an attempt at tackling the question of the
“Warsaw quality” preserved especially in the market, and asks about
the reasons for narrowing it down to the described quarter. Finally,
the text considers the impact of the systemic transformation upon
the future of marketplaces (including trade on the Stadion
Dziesięciolecia – the 10th Anniversary Stadium).
Janina Paradowska,
Norman Davies, Tadeusz Olszański, Andrzej Paczkowski
“Jarmark Europa” –
a
Conversation
A registered
discussion about
Stadion X-lecia
(the 10th Anniversary Stadium), the “Jarmark Europa” market and a
symbolic boundary between the East and the West, held on 12 December
2007 at the Powszechny Theatre in Warsaw.
Roch Sulima
Stadion Bazar
The Warsaw
open-air market in the “abandoned” Tenth Anniversary Sports Stadium
is described as a cognitive figure of essential diagnostic value and
not as an ethnographic oddity. According to the accepted
interpretation, Stadion Bazar (the Stadium Bazaar) is a figure not
of a relic, vanishing after the closure of the almost twenty-years
old Europe Fair (Jarmark Europa), but of that which is emerging and
anticipated in the form of intensifying trans-cultural processes.
Stadion Bazar is a Polish localization of the well-known
“ethno-landscapes” by Arjun Appadurai, a
sui generis
laboratory of the forms and styles of Polish postmodernity. An
important part is played by a recognition of the “borderland
syndrome” (the frontier between the East and the West) and the
“revolutionary” role (in relation to the central systems) performed
by an informal and, simultaneously, powerful “parallel economy”
conducted in the open-air stalls of the bazaar. The author analyses
the cultural consequences of the presence of Stadion Bazar in a
capital city, and its influence on the transformations of the
semantics of urban space and the dynamics of the styles of Polish
pop-culture and consumption models.
Alexandre
Bruni
The East
Warsaw Tower of Babel. “Jarmark Europa”, or Where Africa Meets Asia
For several
years Stadion X-lecia (the 10th Anniversary
Stadium) in Warsaw was the site of an enormous market (“Jarmark
Europa”), with traders from Asia, Africa and East Europe
representing different nationalities, languages, religions and
customs. The author discusses primarily two groups of the
“protagonists”: the Vietnamese and the Africans, and upon the basis
of observations and conversations proposes a “thick description” of
the examined phenomenon.
Ignacy
Strączek
Trade at the
Very End
“In the past,
the very core of the Stadium was the top tier, where the most
attractive commodities were sold, and which produced the urban
legends and myths that sustained the daily press. When on 30
September 2007 the top tier was closed, the traders moved to the ‘Aeroplane’,
a sandy square between trams tracks and a bus station. After the
announcement of the construction of a National Stadium, only rubbish
remained in the terrain facing Waszyngtona Square, and the area
along Grochowska and Zieleniecka streets became a dense network of
stalls. The outcome assumed an interesting form of high, linked
constrictions made out of brown-grey pressed metal and metal sheet,
with plastic foil and canvas carefully attached to this skeleton.
Every day, this structure offered commodities, which filled assorted
gaps and eliminated shortages. (…) The Stadium has already
experienced several agonies. Perhaps one should define its death as
a process? One thing iscertain: no one is capable of halting it”.
Joanna
Warsza
Stadion X – a
Place that Never Existed. On Performative Projects within the Space
of the 10th Anniversary Stadium
Stadion X-lecia
(the 10th Anniversary Stadium)
was
erected in 1955 with the wartime rubble of the destroyed capital.
For forty years its purpose was to protect the good name of
communism, but paradoxically the best known events from that period
was the tragic self-immolation of Ryszard Siwiec in 1968, the papal
Mass celebrated in 1983, and the concert given by Stevie Wonder in
1989. In the mid-1980s it ceased fulfilling sports functions, slowly
turned into a ruin, and became a post-communist phantom. During the
1990s it was “enlivened” by the Vietnamese intelligentsia and
Russian traders – the pioneers of capitalism, who placed on the top
tier of the Stadium camp beds full of commodities. Suddenly, the
“Jarmark Europa” market proved to be the only multi-cultural place
in town, a storehouse of biographies, appliances, and history, as
well as one of the greatest tourist attractions. A place which
theoretically did not exist could be interpreted in numerous, often
contradictory, ways: as an Asian suburb, a wild forest, a kingdom of
the provisional, controlled chaos and cheap shopping, a declining
sports club, a ruin of socialist realistic architecture, an
archaeological site suitable for field work conducted by botanists,
a seat of Jehovah’s Witnesses, and many others. Performative
projects within the space of the Stadium and the market emerged in
response to the heterogeneous character of the site, its years-long
(non-) presence in the middle of a post-communist city, and the
invisibility of the Vietnamese minority.
A Journey to
Asia – an Acoustic Walk in the Vietnamese Sector of the 10th
Anniversary Stadium
(2006) and six
other actions in the 2007/2008 season (Boniek!,
A
Scene-of-crime Inspection,
The
Liquidation of “Jarmark Europa”,
Radio Stadium Calling,
Truncheoning
and
Schengen)
were subjective expeditions made by artists, sportsmen and activists
to the reality of the “already non-existent” Stadium, but also
indicated its controversial existence. Participation and para-documentary
projects (a stroll, a sports match, a spectacle given on a
construction site, an exhibition featuring live people) considered
questions of memory, degradation, the force of the imagination,
ambiguity, and the future or the challenging exotic qualities of the
site.
Tomasz
Szerszeń
Entropy and
Architecture. The Written Stadium
Stadion X-lecia
(the 10th Anniversary Stadium) is no longer, and its sole
trace is a hole in the ground…This text, a commentary to the book
Stadion X: Miejsce, którego nie było
(ed. J. Warsza),
delves into the symbolic presence/absence of the Stadium in an
attempt at conceptualising the tension between its modernist,
monumental architecture and disintegration (which could be perceived
as a form of entropy – a phenomenon which stirred the interest of
artists [R. Smithson] and philosophers [G. Bataille]).
Agata
Chełstowska
Nutritious
Difference. The Warsaw District of Praga and a Game Played in the
Field of Art.
The intention
of this article is to analyse accounts by artists working in the
Praga district and concerning this part of Warsaw. The titular
artists ascribe to Praga a number of positive values, including
authenticity and a “conducive ambiance”. The author portrays the
prime protagonists of the Prague “colonisation”, their relations
with the original residents of Praga, the dynamically developing
“Neighbours for neighbours’” festival, and a local artistic venue –
Skład Butelek. By referring to the theory expounded by Pierre
Bourdieu, A. Chełstowska demonstrates that Praga is becoming part of
the game played by artists. She perceives the changes taking place
in the district within the context of a global history of the
emergence of art quarters in large cities. Moreover, she analyses
the myth of the art quarter and Bohemia (her understanding of the
myth is the same as Roland Barthes’ conception of contemporary
mythicality). Finally, the study describes a number of reflections
about the value of authenticity and the similarities between the
part played in culture by the artist and the ethnologist.
Katarzyna Kuzko
Warszawska Praga. A
Scattered Self-portrait
This text is
an abbreviated version of a licentiate dissertation written in 2006
after two years of research carried out under Dr. Anna Kuczyńska in
the Institute of Ethnology and Cultural Anthropology at Warsaw
University. It is also an attempt at portraying the often
complicated relations between Praga and its inhabitants (or rather,
the assorted visions of Praga cultivated by its residents and other
participants of the processes transpiring in this district). The
study contains theoretical deliberations on the identity of a place
and a nostalgic view of the world which, in the author’s opinion,
comprises, and continues to do so, an essential component of the
image of this part of Warsaw.
Magdalena
Majchrzak
The Student’s
Dormitory in Kickiego Street
The purpose of
this article is to outline an anthropological portrait of the Warsaw
University Students’ Dormitory no. 3 in 9/12 Kickiego Street – a
place which in the course of its fifty years-long existence has
become surrounded with numerous “urban legends” and for many
residents of Warsaw has made a permanent and indelible imprint on
the map of the town. One of the elements of the Dormitory’s real or
imaginary exceptionality is its location on the right bank of the
Vistula, in the very heart of Grochów, traditionally regarded as a
workers’ district, whose social label clearly differed from the one
ascribed to the future “elite of the nation”, i.e. the students. The
prime object of the author’s interest are the eventual developments
along the meeting point of those two communities, and the manner in
which the Dormitory in Kickiego Street has for years remained a
fragment of the space of the Praga South district. The point of
departure for the ensuing analysis are the categories of
“homelessness” and liminality in reference to the status of a
student – mutually compatible albeit formulated by two different
authors. The first part of the article concentrates on the traces of
the presence of these categories in different spheres of collective
life. The following part tries to indicate certain focal points
which concentrated, or still do, the construction of the identity of
a place.
Dagmara
Dudek
Portraits of
Praga. On the Ethnographic Qualities of Certain Photographs
The
transposition of certain aspects of culture calls for the
application of such measures of expression, which possess the power
to evoke and reflect a certain ambiguity. The photograph, conceived
as a record of culture, is precisely such an instrument, which makes
their exploration possible. By acting in this way, it constitutes an
interesting source for the anthropologist. The author describes
photographs by Zelda Klimkowska and Jacek Sielski, whose selection
was published in the album
Praga. Prawa
strona Warszawy
(Praga. The
Right Bank of Warsaw) as well as works by Krzysztof Mich in the
album
Moje miasto
Praga
(My Town of
Praga). On the one hand, D. Dudek tries to solve a question about
the essence of the anthropological dimension of the described
photographs, while on the other hand she attempts to record the
selected narrations to which the analysed photographs refer. These
narrations make it possible to examine the world of the described
protagonists. Anthropology, whose very core is “anthropos”, is by no
means compelled to deal with man as such, a representative of a
community or a group. Why can the anthropologist not focus on a
person and his unique history? This is the task attempted by the
author. The recorded histories comprise a certain retrospection and
reflection.
Jakub
Sadowski
Seeking a Home
in a Club. Taming Praga in the Case of the Saturator Club
The study was
written upon the basis of material collected in the course of
studies conducted in the Praga district in 2006-2008 as part of the
Urban Anthropology: The Myth of Praga. Contemporary Praga. Artists
in Praga
laboratory
group supervised by Dr Zbigniew Benedyktowicz. The presented
monograph is a portrait of the Saturator Club – one of those new
places in Praga which testify to the changes taking place in the
district as well as one of the most interesting venues of its sort
in Warsaw. The author – a young anthropologist – focused his
attention on the fact that Saturator attracts people representing an
above-the-average openness, tolerance and interest in others. The
club itself is provocative and controversial, frequently difficult
to bear, but many of its clients seem to feel best here. The author
tried to view Saturator from assorted assorted perspectives: as a
club, a site and an organisation. In doing so he wondered what makes
the club exceptional and considered the impact it has on the
perception of Praga. The collected material shows a willingness to
flee the general current of club culture and clubbing patterns, and
the need to feel at home. This observation comprises the prime
thesis of the study, whose author, by basing himself on
anthropological theories and publications, attempted to place the
examined phenomena within a wider context and propose their
interpretation.
Natalia
Jabłońska
The ”Policy of
a Stroll”. The Construction and Experiencing of the Urban Space of
the Warsaw District of Praga
The author
describes the art projects and undertakings carried out in Praga, as
well as their tourist consequences, relevant for the revitalisation
of this neglected part of town, additionally known for its ill
repute. The text is a contribution to the experiencing and
construction of urban space.
Maria Rózga
The Activity of Artists and Animators of Culture in the Praga
District of Warsaw
The activity
of artists recently working in the Praga district comprises a unique
cultural phenomenon. The author discusses various theatrical groups
and is interested predominantly in overlapping artistic and social
initiatives. The article shows that the socio-cultural animation
conducted in the district is part of a current described as “the
theatre infected with anthropology”.
Wiesław Juszczak
On Painting by
Andrzej Zwierzchowski
An attempt at
describing the essence of works by Andrzej Zwierzchowski in
categories devised by William Blake.
Tomasz
Szerszeń
“Sometimes
human history comes first, followed by an image, while at other
times it is the reverse…” Conversation with Maria Kiesner about
Weduty warszawskie (Warsaw Vedute) and the district of Praga
A recorded
conversation with Maria Kiesner, author of a cycle of paintings
entitled
Weduty
warszawskie,
who seeks inspiration in the modernistic and soc-modernist
architecture of Warsaw, and has a studio in the district of Praga.
Maciej
Rożalski
“The Charming
Form of Squatting”
A record of a
conversation conducted with the directors of four theatre Praga
theatres: Roman Woźniak – The Academia Theatre, Alina Gałązka – The
Otwock Commune, Katarzyna Kazimierczuk – The Remus Theatre, and
Piotr Borowski and Gianna Bienvenuto – The Theatrical Study.
Jan
Mioduszewski
Fabryka Mebli
(The
Furniture Factory), Ściana (The Wall)
The
performances staged by Mioduszewski consist of motionless poses,
lasting from an hour to several hours and described by their author
as “still performance”. Their characteristic features include the
use of painted overalls as costumes which serve the purposes of
mimicry and make it possible to conceal oneself. Mimesis and
motionlessness create a connection between the performances and
painting. Jan Mioduszewski refers to living sculptures by Gilbert
and George or the performance pieces by Chris Burden from the 1960s.
The published text is a record of one of the still performances
entitled
Ściana
(The
Wall), featured in 2003 as part of the “Neighbours for neighbours”
festival.
Maciej
Rożalski
“On the Other
Side of the Vistula”
The author
analyses the myth of Warsaw’s artistic district of Praga. He
compares the run of the mill opinions disseminated in the media with
the mundane reality of the local art studios. Praga has been
proclaimed an artistic quarter comparable with those functioning in,
i.e., West Berlin. It turns out that the everyday life of the town
house in Lubelska Street and other similar ones in Praga requires
much effort and multiple organizational solutions, making it
possible for this emergent artistic quarter to survive and develop.
Anna
Kurpiel, Wojciech Malawski
“Parkowa” in
the Cracow District of Podgórze
The article is
an attempted anthropological analysis of the Parkowa
Educational-School Centre in the Cracow district of Podgórze. The
authors aim to tell a multi-tiered story about an unusual place,
deeply embedded in local history, and despite its past, still
active. The present-day “Parkowa” centre for juvenile delinquents is
located in the villa of a Gestapo officer named Beckmann. The first
part of the text deals with the specificity of a “semi-open”
educational centre. This feature consists of permitting the young
person to decide whether he wishes to be a patient treated for
social dysfunctions or an inmate forced to escape an oppressive
punishment apparatus. The authors study the impact upon the young
people of the untypical layout of the interiors, their aesthetic,
the villa character of the building and its unique past. The author
goes on to consider the villa’s history, which still remains present
in the awareness of the local residents, and involves both the
second world war and the more distant past of “Parkowa” and the
Podgórze surrounding. “Parkowa” is a magical place, where events and
places from the past return in new embodiments and characters, where
history intermingles with the present, and knowledge with legend.
The centre is situated on a crossing of the coordinates of history
and space, freedom and isolation, knowledge and legend, and its
transcendental nature is supplemented by its location in a
borderline part of the town – a former boundary of Cracow.
Aleksander
Robotycki
Point G. From
the East to the West – or towards the Centre
During his
stay in France the author ironically observed daily reality and its
representations. The point of departure for his reflections is the
word “greve” and its toponym and, simultaneously, alternation:
“Grave”. Both words are a mere pretext for describing two cultural
phenomena, i.e. the strike and mountain tourism, which have very
little in common, although it is possible to discern certain joint
elements, such as time. Evidently, the author did not want to impose
his own approach to the phenomena in question, being aware of their
complexity. This is the reason why many questions remain without an
answer. By demonstrating assorted possibilities of examining
reality, the texts refers to, e. g. phenomenological, semiological
or structural reflection. By way of example, in a fragment about the
strike the author recalls the omnipresent Bourdieu legacy in French
sociology, while in a part about the mountains he indicates that
their phenomenological version is just as invisible as the town of
Calvino but does not possess the character of the non-places devised
by Marc Augé.
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